Monday, January 27, 2014

Udaipur

This morning, as I woke to the call of the Muslim cantor,  I was reflecting on the differences between the Muslim and Hindu worship music. Yesterday's Hindu chanting was complex, varied in voice and beat. It was accompanied by a three or four drums, all beating a rhythm while voices loudly chanted in a cacophony of sound. This is accompanied by swaying and dancing. The Muslim cantor sings  single notes in progressions that amplify their pureness, as if he is calling you to holiness.

Our hotel here in Udaipur is in a wonderful setting, with a back garden, fenced in back by the palace wall. It is lined with blooming trees, and the birds cheerfully chirp in the morning sunshine. Water is pouring gently from the palace wall like a fountain (it does not look like sewage, so I'm going with the thought that it is gray water from the palace). The monkeys gallop along the top of the wall, chasing each other. Idyllic. Breakfast on the rooftop was lovely in the sunshine. 

In contrast to Jaipur, Udaipur has a few highlights, but its real charm is in its luscious environment. It is surrounded by hills, and a man-made lake (made in the 15th century). We visited the City Palace, which is impressive in its size, since it is the largest palace in India. It has hiused the Maharana of this region since the 16th century. This is the only Maharana left in India, a designation reserved for a Prince who has always been independent. The Maharajas (in Rajasthan, at least) we're controlled by the Mughals. Even when the British were here, the Maharana defied British rule.
Udaipur City Palace


We also took a ride on a cable car to the top of another mountain, which had some very pretty views of the city.


Here in Udaipur,  we have used, for the first time, the tuk-tuk - the auto rickshaw. They are definitely convenient. These guys must know the dimensions of their vehicles to the last millimeter, as must any driver in India. We did walk down the streets for quite a while - there are not the same type of hawkers here that we've seen elsewhere at the tourist sites, but certainly there are plenty of vendors. Walking here is harrying, since there are no sidewalks and the vehicle traffic is going fast and without any sense of system. But it was quite interesting to wander the streets, looking at the amazing industry of the people of India.

This night we will spend in a sleeper class train, on the 13-hour trip to Ahmedabad. We are fortunate that at least for the beginning portion of our journey, there are just the four of us in our compartment.  My dad and brother are already asleep, and I can feel the lull of the swaying train. The Teenlet is running through books like water - he has already read The Hobbit, the Lord of the Rings trilogy,  three other books on our flights over here, the War of the Worlds, and is now reading the Faeryland series.
Sleeper Class overnight train to Ahmedabad. 


Speaking of the Teenlet, what an amazing traveler he is. There isn't a whole lot here that he is interested in, but he has enjoyed the forts and has been working on some defensive designs of his own. He has loved having naan every day, and has been a good sport trying out the various Indian dishes we've had (the rest of us are in heaven eating this much Indian food!). And he has been very patient with the rest of us as we wander through mosques and temples. Uncle John is a great guide to explain a lot to him, to engage him in the experience. I am sure he will look back on this and be happy for the experience, but for now, he says he is the most Hobbit-like of all of us - he is missing the comforts of home.

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