Friday, January 24, 2014

Day 2 in Delhi

Yesterday it rained all day, and was a bit chilly. You know that type of cold that seeps into your bones. This morning started out that way, overcast though not raining, but wet-cold. I was already cold, having slept uneasily with only a light blanket. I took a very fast shower - our hotel has no hot water.  We ate breakfast at our rooftop restaurant, accompanied by a mama cat and her two kittens. We were out the door, waiting for our driver by 8am.
Kitties, begging for breakfast at the
rooftop restaurant at our hotel. 


Today we spent exploring New Delhi. This is the area where the government of India presides, so we drove by a lot of police, diplomatic cars, embassies,  the presidential palace and the home of the prime minister. 
Our first stop today was at a Hindu temple, dedicated to the goddess Lakshmi, called Shri Lakshmi Narain Temple.  It was amazing. We were not allowed to take cameras inside, but we took some neat pictures from the outside. The whole complex included many shrines, quotes from Hindu scriptures, and statuary. The colors were astounding, especially contrasted to the white marble floor.
Shri Lakshmi Narain Temple, Delhi (with my dad)


Then we went to the Nehru Museum, which was housed in the Nehru family home. They were setting up for a very large party on the property, with red and yellow, which is a very popular color combination.  The exhibits were abiut Nehru's growing up years, and the quest for independence.  Nehru is considered to be the uncle of India - he worked closely with Mahatma Gandhi,  was the first president of India, and his daughter and grandson were also presidents.


Next we went to Qatab Minar, which  is the tallest tower in India, at the site of a very old mosque set on the site of an even older Hindu shrine. It was fascinating to see the mix of religions. There are ruins upon ruins, carved out of sandstone and marble. We wandered around for a long time, admiring the intricate detail in the carving, the massive tower, and the grand size of what was claimed to be the largest mosque in India. 
Qatab Minar, Delhi

To contrast, we then went to a Bahai temple, called the Lotus Temple. It is built in the shape of a great, white lotus flower. The inside looks very much like a geodesic dome. It was a beautiful testament to prayer, and we sat on the marbled benches to take it in. It was all white, inside and out. Tragically, there is a slum that overlooks the spacious green gardens and temple, which wrenched my heart to see that contrast and think what it must be like to live there and look out on what you cannot have.
Lotus Temple (Bahai Faith), Delhi


Our last stop was Humayun's tomb. It inspired the design of the Taj Mahal. It was getting dark and difficult to see inside the tomb, but they say there are 100 Moghul emperors buried there. Needless to say, it was large and beautiful.

Humayin's Tomb, Delhi

We dropped the Teenlet at the hotel and went down the bazaar that is right outside our doorstep. We found some macaroni and cheese to take back to the Teenlet,  and a few souvenir items. Now, it is nearing bedtime and I am glad to say that is almost a decent bedtime for someone in India, meaning not 7:30 like it was last night.

Some reflections from today:
There is a fascinating camaraderie between the cab drivers, probably everywhere in the world, but quite obvious here. While we are visiting sites, our driver plays cards, chats, and eats with the other drivers. It is fun to see him jump up when he sees us coming, while the rest of the cabbies melt away. 

I would venture to say there is no "rush hour" in Delhi. Imagine the worst rush hour traffic you've ever been in, and add absolute chaos to it, children dodging traffic, and the occasional procession of people dressed up like Hindu gods, along with camels and elephants - and that's what Delhi traffic is like all the time. And honking horns. You must not forget the honking horns.

Having gone to houses of worship for four different religions today, I found it remarkable how much each has in common with the others. Reading passages from the Vedas and Bhagavad Gita on the walls of the Hindu temple, I recognized ideas that are central to the three great monotheisms (Judaism, Christianity, and Islam). Sure, the religions themselves have some stark theological differences as well, but it was good to see the similarities. 

Tomorrow morning early, we leave Delhi and head to Agra.

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